What is a meniscus mirror?
A telescope meniscus mirror is a constant thickness mirror where the backside has the same curvature as the front side. My 16.25x3/8 inch mirror (image by Barbara Bajec), Larry Sharper's ultra-thin meniscus (image by Pierre Lemay)
Why a meniscus mirror?
No hogging out the curve; constant glass thickness; thinner faster larger mirrors
The meniscus shape allows us to have a constant thickness mirror from mirror edge to center. A large fast mirror requires a huge sagitta, or depth in the mirror's center. I've ground curves into common flat mirrors ending up with a measly 1/4 inch [6mm] or less of center thickness. That's concerning.
Slumping a flat mirror in a kiln over a precision refractory mold into a curved shape takes the place of rough grinding in a curve. The amount of glass removed grinding in the curve for a standard flat blank 30 inch [76cm] F2.7 is about 250 cubic inches. That's the same volume as a full thickness 12.5 inch [32cm] mirror blank. Imagine grinding down such a big chunk of glass until nothing remains!
To get this sagitta by grinding->
completely grind away this volume of glass->
John Wall, inventor of the Crayford focuser, ground a 48 inch diameter x 1 inch thick [122x2.5cm]. Perhaps if the blank had been slumped, he would have chosen a focal ratio faster than F8. Here the mirror is being polished with a sub-diameter tool.
My 30x5/8 inch [760x16mm] F2.7, ready for the night. It's a no-ladder scope.
Instant or near instant thermal equilibrium
Last night (Feb 1, 2023) I heard that the comet 2022 E3 ZTF was breaking up. High clouds, patchy snow and ice on the ground. I picked up my 16.25 inch [41cm] F2.9 scope that weighs 25 pounds [11kg], carried it outside, sitting it down in an open area. As soon as I uncovered the mirrors, I was observing at my highest possible magnification. No cooling period needed; good star images. I could have rolled out my 30 inch [76cm] F2.7 that weighs a 100 pounds [45kg] and sets up in five minutes, but there wasn't a clearing large enough. That's what large thin fast meniscus mirrored telescopes offer: lots of aperture, sit down no ladder eyepiece height, lightweight transport, quick setup with no cool down needed. And the comet breaking up? A false report from someone who's tracking failed.
Where did the meniscus mirror idea come from?
I first thought of meniscus mirrors when looking at slumped cellular mirrors circa the year 2000. The face plate is a constant thickness slumped piece of glass, typically 1 inch [2.5cm] thick, that is fused to the cellular structure. I reasoned that the slumped face plate sans cellular support structure might work as a mirror. I obtained a 13.2x1 inch [335x25mm] F3.0 slumped mirror blank. Not only was I able to parabolize the mirror to a high degree of accuracy, but the first light views through my ZipDob revealed a new world of visual observing.
Does the meniscus shape have an antecedent in the amateur telescope making world?
Yes, in the guise of optical windows for Maksutov telescopes, popularized in the amateur telescope making world by the Maksutov Club Circulars first appearing in 1957, and by the subsequent book, "Advanced Telescope Making Techniques Volume 1 Optics" by Allan Mackintosh, 1977. Lawrence Braymer's 1954 Questar telescope featured a meniscus primary mirror. Conical shaped mirrors have a long history and are found in modern Schmidt-Cassegrain amateur telescopes. Conical mirrors that are center stalk supported sag into a close paraboloidal approximate, making them worth serious consideration.
Do meniscus mirrors have to be thin?
No, a meniscus mirror can be any thickness.
- The thinner the lighter the mirror. The lighter the mirror, the lighter the telescope. The lighter the telescope, the more likely it will be used. The difference in weight is significant: my 16.25x3/8 inch [410x10mm] F2.9 weighs 7.5 pounds [3.5kg]. Conventional mirrors of the same size weigh 30 pounds [14kg] or more. This makes a difference while grinding, polishing and parabolizing the mirror too. And during subsequent handling.
- Thinner mirrors cool down more quickly and more evenly compared to standard mirrors that are thin in the center and thick at the edge. Though very large very thin meniscus mirrors are sensitive to temperature differences between their front and back sides.
- Thinner mirrors are harder to support during grinding, polishing and parabolizing and harder to support in the telescope. Harder, not impossibly difficult at all.
Do meniscus mirrors have to be fast?
No. I call mirrors with a focal ratio of F3 or below 'fast'. A meniscus mirror can be any focal ratio.
After the success of my first meniscus mirror, then the success of my second meniscus mirror, a 10.5 inch [267x19mm] F2.7, I chose to work with fast thin meniscus mirrors. I use three-fourths inch [19mm] thick plate glass, commonly available as glass table tops and quite inexpensive.
Fast mirrors favor wider fields. And maximize etendue. Results with these fast meniscus mirrors speak for themselves. Just a few of my many examples include my (re)discovery of the Pleiades Bubble, Integrated Flux Nebula (IFN) or galactic cirrus and tidal streams in far away galaxies.
How does your thin meniscus 25 inch [64cm] mirror compare to John Dobson's 24 inch [61cm] f6.5 porthole made fifty years ago?
My mirror differs little. Here is a comparison:
- Diameter: both mirrors are 25 inches diameter; John's was stopped down to 23.5 inches to hide a rolled edge.
- Center thickness: my mirror is 5/8 inch while John's was 1/2 inch, a little thinner but not by much.
- Edge thickness: my mirror is 9/16 inch which John's was 3/4 inch, a little thicker but not by much.
- Glass shape: mine is meniscus or constant thickness with a curved backside while John's had a flat backside.
- Both mirrors were made from plate glass.
- Back support system: John used an 18 point support while mine uses nine compliant rings designed to blunt the bending and shearing that occur at the support points, much like an 18 point support uses six triangles.
- Lateral support is quite different: mine uses two points at 90 degree separation while John used a sling.
- The broad goal is the same, namely to explore the universe.
- I slumped my mirror to obtain the front curve while John ground his with carbo grit.
- I used a machine to polish my mirror while John used his muscles to polish by hand.
- My mirror favors wide fields, John's was more suited to higher magnifications.
- Mine features on the ground observing often sitting in a chair while John's required a tall orchard latter.
Who made the first thin meniscus mirror?
The first ultra-thin meniscus mirror that I saw was made by David Davis in 2005. His mirror really turned my head, a 16.25 x 3/8 inch [41x1cm] thick slumped F3. The mirror was supported on a bed of compliant 1/4 inch diameter heads that looked like marshmallows arranged in a grid. The regular figure with complete absence of astigmatism was astonishing. Here is David on the Oregon Star Party Telescope Walkabout.
Also check this out 30 inch that is 1/2 inch thick, made in 1991 by E. Arthaud of France.
Do I need a kiln?
Tom Otvos acquired a kiln, slumped a flat piece of glass, ground, polished and parabolized his mirror. Then built the telescope. So did David Davis. Monumental efforts for sure. You do not have to go that far. We've acquired 16 inch [41cm] slumped mirror blanks from DOTI.
What's so special about fast thin meniscus mirrors?
- A thinner constant thickness mirror able to be highly curved.
- A lighter weight mirror leading to a lighter weight telescope.
- Low power super wide angle views (thanks to coma correctors) emphasizing etendue, leading to visual discoveries.
- More aperture stuffed into a smaller form factor. No-ladder viewing for scopes up to 30 inches in size.
For more on etendue, see
Whoa - what's this strain in the polarization test?
Actual images from Rob Brown (16 inch - note that this image also shows stress birefringence induced by edge contact). This mirror is sufficiently annealed.
Aren't meniscus mirrors unconventional?
Sure they are.
Unconventional thinking
- Leads to creativity, new ideas and innovation
- Unconventional individuals are key to innovation success, not conventional science and engineering
- Breaks free from established patterns of thinking
- Takes time to iterate until something new emerges
- Takes courage and can be a lonely pursuit
For me, meniscus mirrors are part of a larger unconventional strategy aiming for unconventional views through the eyepiece of ever more ergonomic and usable telescopes. Here is a partial list of unconventional features that I use.
- Slumped meniscus shaped mirrors made from plate glass that are fast and thin, ranging in size from small to very large
- New mirror making and testing methods
- Optical tube assembly optimizations such as single upper rings with tighter tube diameters, integrated mirror cell and mirror box assembly, smaller diagonals made possible by accepting a tiny bit of P2 coma corrector intrusion
- Wire spiders
- Collimation is built into the tube assembly, eg, focuser and diagonal alignment is built-in, there are no diagonal adjustments, I do not tweak alignment at the eyepiece
- Lightweighted structures using a skin and rib design
- TriDobs and folding ZipDobs
- 3-axis mounts using double flex rockers
- Favoring low magnification wide angle views that have led to discoveries of IFN/galactic cirrus, the Pleiades Bubble, the Andromeda twist, et al
- Executing my own low light experiments, building on Blackwell's WWII study
- Etendue along with diffraction as an explanation of visual performance
A question of quality?
Do large diameter meniscus mirrors work?
Yes. The proof is in the views and ergonomics.
As a founding member of the Altaz Initiative group whose aim is to make 1-2 meter scopes an order of magnitude cheaper, I decided to investigate ever larger curved cellular mirror face plates. I reasoned that at some point, the thin meniscus mirror will prove impractical. What is the largest thin meniscus telescope mirror that can be made by an amateur using ordinary means?
The 16 inch was a joy to make, taking a couple three months. It just works. The 25 and 30 inch took much longer to make and are more temperamental when observing with their thermal issues. Nonetheless, these mirrors show me sights in the sky I would not have imagined.
What are your results?
I contend that the value of a telescope is in the observations made. While specs are important in making the scope, it is the view through the eyepiece or the value of the digital image that counts.
I have made countless drawings. You can find them here:
Comparing a meniscus to a flat back mirror
Ronchi unwrap tests of one of the 30x5/8 inch [760x16mm] F2.7 mirrors and my old 24x1 1/8 inch [610x29mm] F5.5. Both mirrors tested horizontally while supported by a 18 point back side flotation system and a sling for the edge support. The 24 inch's center thickness is 27/32 inches [21mm].
What about small meniscus mirrors?
The smallest meniscus mirror that I have made is the 10.5 inch [27cm]. I made a smaller fast mirror, a 6 inch [15cm] f2.8, from a standard thickness Pyrex blank. It makes little sense to slump smaller mirrors. The weight of a standard thickness blank is light enough and the sagitta or center depth is minimal.
How flexible are thin meniscus mirrors?
Quite flexible. The meniscus shape gives it an overall stiffness, but when considering bending and shear from a point to a nearby point, there is no difference compared to a flat backed mirror.
Here is a chart from my webpage on the 30 inch
description | diameter | thickness | R/e | R^4/e^2 | mirror cell design | edge support
|
my 6 inch F2.8 Pyrex | 6 | 1.00 | 6 | 81 | 3 pts | 2pt @90deg
|
my 8 inch F6 | 8 | 1.125 | 7 | 202 | 3 pts | 3 pt
|
my 10.5 inch F2.7 meniscus | 10.5 | 0.75 | 14 | 1351 | 3 pts | 2pt @90deg
|
my 13.2 inch F3.0 meniscus | 13.2 | 1 | 13 | 1897 | 3 pts | 2pt @90deg
|
my 20.5 inch x 2 inch thick F4.8 | 20.5 | 2 | 10 | 2760 | 9 pts | 2pt @90deg
|
my Dobsonian 16 inch F5 portholes | 16 | 1 | 16 | 4096 | carpet or 9 pts | sling
|
my 24 inch F5.5 | 24 | 1.4 | 17 | 10580 | 18 pts | sling
|
my 30 inch F4 Pyrex sheet glass | 30 | 2 | 15 | 12656 | 18 pts | sling
|
my 16.25 inch F2.9 meniscus | 16.25 | 0.4 | 40 | 25600 | 6 pts | sling
|
John Dobson's 24 inch | 25.5 | 1 | 26 | 26427 | 18 pts | sling
|
Steve Swayze's 40 inch F5 | 40 | 2 | 20 | 40000 | 27 pts | sling
|
my 25 inch F2.6 meniscus | 25 | 0.56 | 44 | 77160 | 9 rings | 2pt @90deg
|
my 30 inch F2.7 meniscus | 30 | 0.63 | 48 | 127551 | 18 pts | sling or central hub
|
- We can use this to our advantage while parabolizing to preferentially polish down high zones.
- But we have to be careful to support the mirror on the test stand as if it were in the telescope.
- And we have to use very good technique when grinding, polishing and parabolizing these thin mirrors. For example, I use mirror on top of full sized pitch lap, carefully controlling the rotation of the pusher mechanism, the mirror and the tool.
Does the backside of a meniscus mirror need to be ground?
Probably. There is often wedge (one side of the mirror is a few thousands of an inch [0.1mm] thicker than the other side). This can lead to low order astigmatism (the thinner portion of the mirror blank flexes a tiny bit more than the thicker portion).
We've also discovered that if the backside is ground, then it should be fine ground through at least 220 grit. See the discussion on stress in my 16 inch mirror log, steps #1 and #2.
How do you design the mirror cell?
Just like a standard mirror cell, except that the supports (either flotation or astatic) must take into account the curvature of the mirror's back. The edge support needs to be centered on the center of gravity. Any deviation from supporting the edge at the center of gravity results in noticably deformed star test images. A sling works well, with the proviso that the sling be well designed.
Note that the edge support goes through the meniscus mirror's center of gravity by virtue of touching the mirror's back edge for the 16, 25 and 30 inch mirrors. That is, the mirror's sagitta happens to equal the mirror's thickness.
As far the edge support goes, here is R.N.Wilson's analysis from his books, "Reflecting Telescope Optics I and II"
Do larger aperture have thermal issues?
Yes.
As anticipated with something new, there are surprises. Reality is not a perfect fit with speculation. Only by building do we know; only by iterating do we solve. As it turns out, the thinness of the mirrors is not a major obstacle, not even the extreme parabolization.
- The 30 inch thermal discussion
- Howard Banich's 30 inch. Search for 'thermal'.
- The 25 inch thermal discussion (open up the update after a using the scope for a year, then scan down a few paragraphs)
- The 16.25 inch has no thermal issues with the enclosed rigid shroud and sealed mirror box
If considering a very large meniscus plate glass mirror, be prepared to wrestle with thermal issues. Since this is 'engineering', it is likely that this will be solved then standardized just as thermal issues with previous mirrors were.
I hear that you only use your thin meniscus mirrored telescopes at low magnifications, implying a lack of optical quality. Is this true?
No.
I use my telescopes at the maximum power afforded by my eyepiece collection. Less maximum magnification than an equivalent F5, but adequate.
Here are high magnification examples.
How many thin meniscus mirrors have you made?
Six, all F3 and faster and 1 inch and thinner.
Diameter (inches) | Thickness (inches) | Focal ratio | Mirror weight (pounds) | Mirror blank source
|
(two) 30 | 0.63 | 2.7 | 38 | David Davis
|
25 | 0.56 | 2.6 | 25 | Greg Wilhite
|
16.25 | 0.4 | 2.9 | 7 | DOTI
|
13.2 | 1 | 3.0 | 12 | Richard Schwartz
|
10.5 | 0.7 | 2.7 | 5 | Richard Schwartz
|
Who else has made/makes meniscus mirrors?
Check out this 30 inch that is 1/2 inch thick, made in 1991 by E. Arthaud of France. Also see here from here.
Also see Rik ter horst's work here (16 inch) and here (24 inch).
Tom Otvos slumped and parabolized a thin 14 inch F2.6.
BVCTek has made/makes thin meniscus mirrors using laminated glass layers. Chris Fuld's 41 inch is an example.
Norm Fullum makes thin meniscus mirrors. See the posting describing the mirror and scope.
How difficult is it to parabolize large fast mirrors?
It is very difficult: lots of waves of correction, lots of mirror area, highly flexible glass.
Here are the issues I faced.
- Learning how to make large pitch laps
- Thin mirrors flexing while polishing and on the test stand
- Thermal effects during polishing (the heat of polishing overcorrects plate glass)
- Zones: their interpretation and how to deal with them
I invented a new way of parabolizing large mirrors. Mirror on top of a full sized spider tool. And wrote a software calculator to help me shape the lap. Check out problem #10 onward in my log of making the 25 inch mirror. And my pitch lap calculator.
Testing the mirrors is also quite the challenge. I refined my Matching Ronchi test to detect subtle variations in the Ronchi band positions. And I finish parabolizing using the star test. See the mirror logs. Particularly instructive are the seven star test parabolizing sessions that I used to finish the 16 inch mirror.
After the difficult challenge of the 25 inch and the two 30 inchers, the 16 inch was a joy to make. It took me 4.5 hrs of parabolizing time to finish the mirror (the 2nd time around!).
Making two 30 inch mirrors at the same time (what I did to one, I did to the other, regardless of effect) proved that most of the time working a mirror is spent figuring out how to make that specific mirror: its diameter, thickness, and focal ratio. Once a particular mirror size is pioneered, subsequent similar mirrors go relatively quickly.
Are thin meniscus mirrors ready for the mainstream?
Sizes up to 20 inch are fairly well understood; sizes to 30 inches can experience temperamental thermal issues and need to be ventilated properly.
What size should be my first meniscus mirror project?
Somewhere between 10 and 16 inches [25 to 41cm].
The 10 inch and 13 inch mirrors fine ground, polished and parabolized like other mirrors. I used a mild parabolizing lap. The Matching Ronchi got me to snap focus. I used the high power star test to finish the parabolizing. In lieu of the star test the Bath IF can be used. The form factor is small: relatively small physical size and lightweight. The views are eye popping: rich wide fields, serious planetary detail at high magnification.
The 16.25 inch mirror [41cm] started 0.5 inches thick and ended at 0.4 inches thick [12mm to 10mm] due to fine grinding the front and grinding the back regular. The thinness was not an issue; in fact, I used the thinness to my advantage to preferentially polish a high zone by pressing down harder on the mirror's back over the high zone. I encountered thermal effects during parabolizing but not any in the sealed tube assembly while observing during dropping nighttime temperatures. The scope gives steady well corrected high power star images at high power (20x per inch of aperture) as soon as I carry the scope outside. The widest angle views are 1.5 to 2 two degrees.
The 16 inch appears to be the sweet spot. After all, it was the aperture chosen for the first standardized Dobsonian telescope design. With a fast thin meniscus, the form factor is shrunk to an 8 inch [20cm] scope.
Here's a snap of the 16.25, 10.5 and 30+6 inch [41, 27, 76+15 cm] scopes.
Pivoting to Night Vision with home silvering
Sometimes when pursuing something new, an unexpected opportunity comes along in a quite different direction. Pivoting. Night Vision devices on home silvered (not aluminized) very fast mirrors give mind-blowing views. Here is an image of the Pillars of Creation in M16 that matches the view through the 30 inch equipped with a NV device.
Here is my drawing of the Pelican Nebula with my 30 inch followed by an image through Howard Banich's 30 inch, the second 30 inch mirror that I made, that I grabbed from the Wikipedia page then reprocessed it to look like the view through the NV device. Image attribution: By Urmymuse - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=107860278
Retrospective
The good:
- Large and fast meniscus mirrors work! The views are really something.
- There is no thermal cooling down time required.
- The lightweight mirrors are a joy to pick up and carry around during grinding and parabolizing.
- The lightweight mirrors result in lightweight telescopes. The 30 inch OTA weighs 97 lbs (0.14 PSI [pounds per square inch of aperture]).
- These mirrors can be parabolized smoothly and accurately without astigmatism, supported on the back and edge nicely.
- Taking a whole mirror approach with MOT (Mirror On Top) of full sized petal lap; treating the mirror as if it were a giant 6 inch: avoids zones, avoids astigmatism.
- Matching Ronchi test works: not only is it quick but it is accurate; in conjunction with the star test, leads to a fine mirror.
- Pitch lap calculator works: says how to modify the petal lap for the next parabolizing session.
- An aluminum sling supports the edge quite well; a hinged support rod that supports a hub attached to the central back of the mirror works too.
- No ladder eyepiece height for the 25 and 30 inch telescopes at zenith thanks to the fast F2.7 and low profile 3-axis mount where the bottom of the rocker at its lowest pivot is half an inch [13mm] above the ground.
- A shroud insulates the optical path from night air breezes, helping to stabilize the mirror's figure.
- The first light views through the 30 inch were among the best I've ever had. The widest field I got was 1 degree with the 25mm ES 100 deg eyepiece. Though I was throwing away 0.1 to 0.2 magnitude of light because of a too large exit pupil, the views were jaw dropping in their contrast, brightness and colored hues (Andromeda Galaxy and its companions, Pleiades, M33, Double Cluster, M42/43, North American Nebula and Pelican). The Ring Nebula was a disc of green-blue light with an orangish edge. If the value of a telescope is in the observations made, then the scope is already proving its value.
- The 16 inch ultra thin fast mirror was easier to parabolize than thicker 16 inchers.
- The 16 inch mirror's thinness presented no difficult problems during grinding, polishing and parabolizing.
- Because the 16 inch mirror is so thin and flexible, accentuated pressure to flatten zones and fix edges works nicely.
- The 16 inch mirror's stiffness (or lack thereof) seems to fall in line with my radius to the 4th power divided by the thickness squared.
- The accentuated pressure on the edge while dragging it from the tool edge to the tool center flattens the edge nicely (though it will remove parabolization).
- I am able to parabolize the 16 inch with MOT (Mirror On Top) of a full sized lap (not trimmed into a star lap or parabolizing lap).
- The Matching Ronchi Test (MR Test) works nicely to parabolize such a fast mirror. I continue to use and recommend the star test to verify the Matching Ronchi and to ferret out minor zonal issues.
The bad:
- The essential issues with thin mirrors this large is the extreme degree of parabolization while maintaining a smooth surface, and, supporting the edge (much more critical than supporting the back side).
- Judging from several factors like the trouble finishing fine grinding and flexing on the mirror stand, along with the simple dia^4 / thick^2 equation, I think the 30 inchers are about twice as flexible as the 25 inch F2.6, 9/16 inch thick.
- Mirror floppiness means that I had to stop at 20 micron Aluminum Oxide - 9 and 12 micron AO2 tended to scratch.
- Mirror floppiness causes trouble in finishing the grinding of the extreme edge to remove all pits.
- Hard to get enough downward pressure on such a large area so the polishing proceeded slowly.
- Need to be aware of mirror profile changes due to changing temperature.
- It takes tremendous effort to successfully complete twin 30 inchers.
- When setting up on the hot asphalt driveway, the asphalt warms up the air that is vented onto the mirror's back side, causing overcorrection. The fix is to lay out a tarp over the hot asphalt. This works well.
- When the scope is pointed horizontally for an hour or two, sometimes the passive venting hole is not enough to keep the mirror in thermal equilibrium. Instead, the mirror turns a little astigmatic, aligned up and down, meaning that the bottom and top of the mirror are at different temperatures. Aiming the scope skyward and turning on the fan clears the astigmatism.
- Had to stop at 20 micron aluminum oxide as finer sizes left scratches.
- Just like my other thin meniscus blanks, the 16 inch mirror when heated shortens its radius of curvature and adds correction. However, this mirror presents this symptom more severely than any other of my mirrors. Is it related to the extreme thinness of the mirror?
- Not necessarily a 'bad', but the time for the 2nd parabolization attempt is always a fraction of the 1st attempt, suggesting that zeroing-in on what works for a particular mirror takes time. The 'bad' is that apparently it is necessary to go through the learning period for each mirror, as each is so unique.
The ugly:
- It takes time to learn how to make and maintain large pitch laps without making a mess.
- The effort to parabolize exceeds the polishing time. It is a waste of time to pitch polish after pad polishing before parabolizing. Best to pad polish using the tiled tool beginning with a quick flash polish to verify that it is OK to continue with polishing. Reserve the pitch lap for parabolizing, anticipating that first parabolizing effort may fail due to an overcorrected edge because it is a challenge to get the center low enough with this amount of parabolic deviation from spherical. The second time through parabolizing is inevitably an easy, no-drama affair.
- Be careful to characterize where astigmatism during bench testing is coming from. In my case some of it was coming from my glasses!
- Changing the TeleVue P2 Coma Corrector settings by a single letter, say from 'B' to 'A', changes correction significantly. Twisting inward adds correction, twisting outward (ie, from 'B' to 'C') removes significant correction.
- An eyepiece's spherical aberration affects the star test image.
- The larger mirrors are very sensitive to temperature differences, changing correction and occasionally becoming astigmatism if air is not circulated about the glass.
eod